I'm home. safe and sound... it was a long trip 22 hours but relatively smooth. I've spent the last few days readjusting to life here. I'm eating on schedule and sleeping somewhat on schedule but my bladder still thinks it's morning and wakes me up at 4:30 every day. It's interesting that is the last thing to readjust.
I'm working on photos and will continue to post some of those on here.
I'm also taking suggestions on the next vacation destination...
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Final Observations...
.... It´s good to be back in Argentina, if only for a day. And to sum up the trip I thought I´d mentioned a few more things I may not yet have mentioned about argentina. In random order...
1. Singing or whistling along to music in loud tones is perfectly acceptable, whether you are walking down the street, a clerk in a store, a waitress in a restaurant and it´s ok because most people can keep a tune.
2. The preferred pick up line of all argentine men is either ¿de donde eres? if you are alone and look spanish, ¿de donde son? if you are in a group and look spanish or ¿hi, where you from? if you happen to look especially like a tourist. Best pick up line so far? "are you lonesome tonight?" I wasn´t.
3. its unlikely that you will pass a group of men as a group of women without receiving at least 3 compliments. they leave you alone a bit more if you are solo but I still was told I was beautiful 3 times and asked where I was from 2 in a 20 minute walk to the plaza today. Still, its never an uncomfortable sort of attention, I never feel threatened.
4. At night the corteneros come out in full force, BAs poor who sort through the trash looking for recyclables to sell. They pull large carts of cardboard, aluminum and glass. The post crash poverty in BA isn´t in your face but you don´t have to look too hard to see it. And the longer I am here the more apparent it is. But its not a desperate sort of poverty. You never get solicited for money without getting something in return. even if it is just a token kids valentine.
5. I passed the same street dog 6 times today walking around San telmo. Those dogs can really make it around. (by the way I saw it almost get hit by a car 3 of the 6 times I saw it).
6. Lanes on the roads are really more of a suggestion than a rule, and same goes for the center dividing line.
7. I´ve finally figured out that the helado shop on the corner near my hostel that never seems to be open just is closed during the day but opens at 7:30 at night. Their dulce de leche with chocolate chip is fantastic.
8. I don´t think I can eat much more meat, white bread or cheese and plan a all fresh vegetable cleansing diet as soon as I hit the states.
Well, I´m off to dinner with Mercedes in Palermo. My last night in BA. Then tomorrow I am hoping to finally make it to the one sight I really wanted to see here in BA, MALBA. I tried to go on Monday but the upstairs was closed, their new exhibit starts tomorrow. Then I´m leaving on a get plane. Back home to the rain and a fading tan.
1. Singing or whistling along to music in loud tones is perfectly acceptable, whether you are walking down the street, a clerk in a store, a waitress in a restaurant and it´s ok because most people can keep a tune.
2. The preferred pick up line of all argentine men is either ¿de donde eres? if you are alone and look spanish, ¿de donde son? if you are in a group and look spanish or ¿hi, where you from? if you happen to look especially like a tourist. Best pick up line so far? "are you lonesome tonight?" I wasn´t.
3. its unlikely that you will pass a group of men as a group of women without receiving at least 3 compliments. they leave you alone a bit more if you are solo but I still was told I was beautiful 3 times and asked where I was from 2 in a 20 minute walk to the plaza today. Still, its never an uncomfortable sort of attention, I never feel threatened.
4. At night the corteneros come out in full force, BAs poor who sort through the trash looking for recyclables to sell. They pull large carts of cardboard, aluminum and glass. The post crash poverty in BA isn´t in your face but you don´t have to look too hard to see it. And the longer I am here the more apparent it is. But its not a desperate sort of poverty. You never get solicited for money without getting something in return. even if it is just a token kids valentine.
5. I passed the same street dog 6 times today walking around San telmo. Those dogs can really make it around. (by the way I saw it almost get hit by a car 3 of the 6 times I saw it).
6. Lanes on the roads are really more of a suggestion than a rule, and same goes for the center dividing line.
7. I´ve finally figured out that the helado shop on the corner near my hostel that never seems to be open just is closed during the day but opens at 7:30 at night. Their dulce de leche with chocolate chip is fantastic.
8. I don´t think I can eat much more meat, white bread or cheese and plan a all fresh vegetable cleansing diet as soon as I hit the states.
Well, I´m off to dinner with Mercedes in Palermo. My last night in BA. Then tomorrow I am hoping to finally make it to the one sight I really wanted to see here in BA, MALBA. I tried to go on Monday but the upstairs was closed, their new exhibit starts tomorrow. Then I´m leaving on a get plane. Back home to the rain and a fading tan.
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Uruguay...
... it sounds so exotic doesn't it? In reality its only a 50 minute catamaran ride from BA but on choppy seas mind you so it felt like more.
Otherwise it doesn't feel that different, the money is different although you have your choice to pay in pesos uruguanos, pesos argentinos, o dollares estados unidos (they're very accomodating). Prices are harder to comprehend, instead of dividing by three you have to divide by 20, it should be easier but its harder. I paid $200 pesos for breakfast, and just about died, til I realized it was only $10. Still, a bit expensive but i was sitting at a table on the beach so what can you expect.
I did note that the coffee here is not as good, but the wine seems to be ok.
The weather has been ideal-- 80 and sunny with a pleasant breeze to keep away the bugs. I'm already on page 50 of my 200 page book I hope it lasts through tomorrow because the only english books available appear to be trashy romance novels... although, if you can't read a trashy romance novel on a somewhat dirty beach in uruguay where can you read one?
My hostel is very quiet and that's good because its giving me some good isolation and alone time to process my trip. And frankly after 21 days its nice to have my own bathroom and bed, even if a street dog has made my stoop his favorite napping place. The Hostel is really more of a guest house, complete with grandma sitting at the kitchen table. The english spoken is minimal and frankly i'm pretty proud of myself that the language hasn't really been an issue. My survival spanish has gotten downright impressive. We did have a bit of confusion about the word for trash an though, there aren't any anywhere, weird. Unfortunately I have now forgotten what she told me the name was and so we may have to repeat the exchange tomorrow.
So yeah, uruguay, its warm, its quiet, its cheap, its exactly what I need before going home.
Otherwise it doesn't feel that different, the money is different although you have your choice to pay in pesos uruguanos, pesos argentinos, o dollares estados unidos (they're very accomodating). Prices are harder to comprehend, instead of dividing by three you have to divide by 20, it should be easier but its harder. I paid $200 pesos for breakfast, and just about died, til I realized it was only $10. Still, a bit expensive but i was sitting at a table on the beach so what can you expect.
I did note that the coffee here is not as good, but the wine seems to be ok.
The weather has been ideal-- 80 and sunny with a pleasant breeze to keep away the bugs. I'm already on page 50 of my 200 page book I hope it lasts through tomorrow because the only english books available appear to be trashy romance novels... although, if you can't read a trashy romance novel on a somewhat dirty beach in uruguay where can you read one?
My hostel is very quiet and that's good because its giving me some good isolation and alone time to process my trip. And frankly after 21 days its nice to have my own bathroom and bed, even if a street dog has made my stoop his favorite napping place. The Hostel is really more of a guest house, complete with grandma sitting at the kitchen table. The english spoken is minimal and frankly i'm pretty proud of myself that the language hasn't really been an issue. My survival spanish has gotten downright impressive. We did have a bit of confusion about the word for trash an though, there aren't any anywhere, weird. Unfortunately I have now forgotten what she told me the name was and so we may have to repeat the exchange tomorrow.
So yeah, uruguay, its warm, its quiet, its cheap, its exactly what I need before going home.
Monday, March 24, 2008
just cause jodi asked...
A picture of a penquin.... you´ll have to wait for more, I´m off to Colonia tomorrow... Hola Uruguay!
El Chalten Photos 2
A Few more photos of El Chalten....
Sunrise on Fitz Roy
Lunch at Lago Torre
Bathroom near Lago Torre
The trail back down to town
Town
Sunrise on Fitz Roy
Lunch at Lago Torre
Bathroom near Lago Torre
The trail back down to town
Town
The kindness of strangers
I´ve mentioned before how friendly the argentine people are. They´ll bend over backwards for you to make sure you get what you need.
Something that happened yesterday really demonstrates this. Sarah and I were leaving the hostel, on our way down the street and a man was walking behind us. I stepped aside to let him pass and he said to me "Pardon me, the label" and pointed to the back of my shirt. Sure enough my smartwool tag was outside of my shirt. He stopped me to tell me, in english, my tag was showing. Amazing.
Something that happened yesterday really demonstrates this. Sarah and I were leaving the hostel, on our way down the street and a man was walking behind us. I stepped aside to let him pass and he said to me "Pardon me, the label" and pointed to the back of my shirt. Sure enough my smartwool tag was outside of my shirt. He stopped me to tell me, in english, my tag was showing. Amazing.
Tango in Telmo
This city has such a thriving cultural scene it astounds me.
I spent most of the day yesterday wandering through the San telmo market which put our sunday markets to shame. It was over a mile of artisan stalls that culminated at Plaza Dorego which was a slew of antique stalls. Old Seltzer Bottles, chain purses, I really felt that if you knew what you were looking for you could get some good finds. And interspersed through it all was Tango. Tango Music, Tango Dance. Entire orchestras would set up. A group of 10 with 4 violins, 4 accordians, an upright base and a piano! was not uncommon. They were street performers for sure but you got the feeling that they were there mostly because they loved playing for the crowds.
At the end of the line (near my hostel at Parque Lezama) I stopped for a coffee in the bar there and it really struck me how much of a cafe scene there is here, how much of an artist here and suddenly the title "the paris of south america" made sense to me. I´ve never been to Paris, but I imagine it has some real similarities to here but BA definitely has its own flair. Funky style by local designers, tango electronica (i bought a cd called "tanghetto--Buenos Aires Remixed"), really cool art and original music. The arts scene is so alive here its palpable.
I spent most of the day yesterday wandering through the San telmo market which put our sunday markets to shame. It was over a mile of artisan stalls that culminated at Plaza Dorego which was a slew of antique stalls. Old Seltzer Bottles, chain purses, I really felt that if you knew what you were looking for you could get some good finds. And interspersed through it all was Tango. Tango Music, Tango Dance. Entire orchestras would set up. A group of 10 with 4 violins, 4 accordians, an upright base and a piano! was not uncommon. They were street performers for sure but you got the feeling that they were there mostly because they loved playing for the crowds.
At the end of the line (near my hostel at Parque Lezama) I stopped for a coffee in the bar there and it really struck me how much of a cafe scene there is here, how much of an artist here and suddenly the title "the paris of south america" made sense to me. I´ve never been to Paris, but I imagine it has some real similarities to here but BA definitely has its own flair. Funky style by local designers, tango electronica (i bought a cd called "tanghetto--Buenos Aires Remixed"), really cool art and original music. The arts scene is so alive here its palpable.
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Vegetariano, no mas!
It's me, Trish. Finally materializing on my promise to post as a guest author, about the glorious beef! I have no excuses for my tardiness. So, here goes...
I think we planned this trip six months ago. At that point, I was back on the wagon , after a year or so of intermittent foraying into a carnivorous lifestyle on a random, impulsive basis. I was a true vegetarian for 15 years and then simply could no longer ignore the craving. So, getting back to Argentina - I bought the Lonely Planet book once we were officially going, and quickly realized I was traveling to beef mecca. Interesting. I am also going to Africa later this year and decided a while back that I will definitely eat meat there, so I made a conscious decision that it was in my best interest to eat this famed beef in Argentina.
I embraced this decision by going into training. I had my first bite of steak since middle school, in December (thanks, Terry). I figured, no reason to risk potentially making myself sick from this venture, so it was probably better to ease myself back into things. Next, I had a Dick's cheeseburger. My first Dick's burger EVER. Then, a beef empanada at La Isla, thanks to Katrina's sophisticated palate. I digress - the point here is that on my Rediscovery of Meat Adventure, I realized I hated chicken, while I felt an uncontrollable carnal love for beef. Red meat. This is not what I expected.
We had our first dinner in Buenos Aires on Thursday. Let me preface the following by saying that Mary, Lara, and I all agree that our dinner at Parilla 1880 was one of the best meals and dining experiences of our entire lives. Were we so jet lagged and deliriously happy just to be alive and so fortunate to have the ability to travel as we desire so as to make you think we'd say that about anywhere we went at that point? Perhaps. But, I'm telling you - it really was that good. The ambiance was magical and we had a three course meal (that included a giant chunk of "baked provolone" as an appetizer - YUM), wine, and dessert for the equivalent of about $20 USD each. Amazing!
Lara was immediately interested in steak but I declared that I wasn't ready for it yet. Thankfully, I momentarily came to my senses and realized that this is what I came here for. I had no idea what to order, so Lara guided me through the process like a wise sage. When the slab of meat was placed down in front of me, I have to admit that I was a little nervous. Am I really ready for this? I took up my fork and knife with courage and cut myself my first little bite. By this time Lara was already reacting to hers with incredible enthusiasm. So I took my bite. And, Oh My God. I can't actually articulate with words how or why this particular piece of steak tasted so good. Lara said it melted in her mouth. That's completely accurate. But there was something else about it. It was almost scary how good it was. In the sense that after each bite I felt an overwhelming, all-encompassing sense of sheer satisfaction. Similar to, but inherently different to the feeling of pleasure I receive after polishing off an entire pint of Ben & Jerry's in one go.
So, does Argentina have the best beef in the world? I may be a novice but I do believe the title is well deserved.
I think we planned this trip six months ago. At that point, I was back on the wagon , after a year or so of intermittent foraying into a carnivorous lifestyle on a random, impulsive basis. I was a true vegetarian for 15 years and then simply could no longer ignore the craving. So, getting back to Argentina - I bought the Lonely Planet book once we were officially going, and quickly realized I was traveling to beef mecca. Interesting. I am also going to Africa later this year and decided a while back that I will definitely eat meat there, so I made a conscious decision that it was in my best interest to eat this famed beef in Argentina.
I embraced this decision by going into training. I had my first bite of steak since middle school, in December (thanks, Terry). I figured, no reason to risk potentially making myself sick from this venture, so it was probably better to ease myself back into things. Next, I had a Dick's cheeseburger. My first Dick's burger EVER. Then, a beef empanada at La Isla, thanks to Katrina's sophisticated palate. I digress - the point here is that on my Rediscovery of Meat Adventure, I realized I hated chicken, while I felt an uncontrollable carnal love for beef. Red meat. This is not what I expected.
We had our first dinner in Buenos Aires on Thursday. Let me preface the following by saying that Mary, Lara, and I all agree that our dinner at Parilla 1880 was one of the best meals and dining experiences of our entire lives. Were we so jet lagged and deliriously happy just to be alive and so fortunate to have the ability to travel as we desire so as to make you think we'd say that about anywhere we went at that point? Perhaps. But, I'm telling you - it really was that good. The ambiance was magical and we had a three course meal (that included a giant chunk of "baked provolone" as an appetizer - YUM), wine, and dessert for the equivalent of about $20 USD each. Amazing!
Lara was immediately interested in steak but I declared that I wasn't ready for it yet. Thankfully, I momentarily came to my senses and realized that this is what I came here for. I had no idea what to order, so Lara guided me through the process like a wise sage. When the slab of meat was placed down in front of me, I have to admit that I was a little nervous. Am I really ready for this? I took up my fork and knife with courage and cut myself my first little bite. By this time Lara was already reacting to hers with incredible enthusiasm. So I took my bite. And, Oh My God. I can't actually articulate with words how or why this particular piece of steak tasted so good. Lara said it melted in her mouth. That's completely accurate. But there was something else about it. It was almost scary how good it was. In the sense that after each bite I felt an overwhelming, all-encompassing sense of sheer satisfaction. Similar to, but inherently different to the feeling of pleasure I receive after polishing off an entire pint of Ben & Jerry's in one go.
So, does Argentina have the best beef in the world? I may be a novice but I do believe the title is well deserved.
The last stage
I´m finally reaching that last stage of relaxation. Where getting a cup of coffee or having a picnic lunch can be your whole day. It´s less about making plans and more about letting plans be made.
Friday consisted of a picnic lunch in a park with half the families in BA who were all on holiday. Choruses of "Heladoooo!" surrounded me, 2 peso a bonbon. It was hot, 85 or so?, and very sunny. The bugs were loud and I got more than a few new bites. (i´m starting to look like I have chicken pox).
The afternoon and evening turned stormy as I sat with my new friend sara drinking a glass of red wine in the bar around the corner from our hostel. Sara is returning from studying the penguins in antartica and is from Nova Scotia. Her next job is at a national park up near the arctic in Canada. We get along well and so we took a trip into the tigre together yesterday. (you can read about that in the previous post). It was very relaxing, felt like a whole world away from BA.
Then as I walked into my hostel the phone rang and it was for me (?!!). My friend Mercedes was calling, did I want to go for dinner? I was tired but wanted to see her so I said "yes!". She first took me to a place in La Boca, one of the oldest typical Parillas in BA. Still preserved from the era of the 40s when tango first took place. There wasn´t a tourist there but being a saturday night the place was packed. "Do you like sushi?" she asked? I love it I said so she mentioned that she knows a good place at the japanese cultural center in San Telmo. We pull up, its a building with a few japonese characters on the door. We go inside to a seperate set of doors and mechi persuades them to let us in for dinner. It´s fantastic. Amazing Sushi and such a treat after all of the meat and empanadas I´ve had so far. Then to top it all off, mercedes will absolutely not let me pay. Her treat! Hospitality above and beyond. It was so great to see her. We have made tentative plans to see Palermo next thursday night before i leave but I made her promise to let me split the check.
So far my morning has consisted of wandering the market which was still just getting going at noon. I plan to eat my lunch of a tuna empanada, some fruit and an alfajore (hand made from the bakery across the street). And then hit the market again. Perhaps a cafe doble or a vino blanco in the late afternoon will also be in order.
This is the life.
Friday consisted of a picnic lunch in a park with half the families in BA who were all on holiday. Choruses of "Heladoooo!" surrounded me, 2 peso a bonbon. It was hot, 85 or so?, and very sunny. The bugs were loud and I got more than a few new bites. (i´m starting to look like I have chicken pox).
The afternoon and evening turned stormy as I sat with my new friend sara drinking a glass of red wine in the bar around the corner from our hostel. Sara is returning from studying the penguins in antartica and is from Nova Scotia. Her next job is at a national park up near the arctic in Canada. We get along well and so we took a trip into the tigre together yesterday. (you can read about that in the previous post). It was very relaxing, felt like a whole world away from BA.
Then as I walked into my hostel the phone rang and it was for me (?!!). My friend Mercedes was calling, did I want to go for dinner? I was tired but wanted to see her so I said "yes!". She first took me to a place in La Boca, one of the oldest typical Parillas in BA. Still preserved from the era of the 40s when tango first took place. There wasn´t a tourist there but being a saturday night the place was packed. "Do you like sushi?" she asked? I love it I said so she mentioned that she knows a good place at the japanese cultural center in San Telmo. We pull up, its a building with a few japonese characters on the door. We go inside to a seperate set of doors and mechi persuades them to let us in for dinner. It´s fantastic. Amazing Sushi and such a treat after all of the meat and empanadas I´ve had so far. Then to top it all off, mercedes will absolutely not let me pay. Her treat! Hospitality above and beyond. It was so great to see her. We have made tentative plans to see Palermo next thursday night before i leave but I made her promise to let me split the check.
So far my morning has consisted of wandering the market which was still just getting going at noon. I plan to eat my lunch of a tuna empanada, some fruit and an alfajore (hand made from the bakery across the street). And then hit the market again. Perhaps a cafe doble or a vino blanco in the late afternoon will also be in order.
This is the life.
cuarenta uno pesos
Trip on Subway to and from Train station (including 2 pesos I was shortchanged)--- $3.80
Trip on Train to and from Tigre (a suburb near the river delta)--- $2.20
Lunch (split by two with my new friend Sara)
Pear, peach, tomato and almonds--- $6.30/2 = $3.15
pan y queso con albahaca--- $20/2 =$10
aceitunas (olives) $4/2 = $2
Plastic knife and fork from McDonald´s-- Free
Public taxi boat into the delta $15 round trip
Picnic lunch-- Free
Bribe to taxi driver to let us off at two stops $2
Glass of red wine on a patio under the trees $3
Total= $41 pesos = less than $13
Bargain!
Trip on Train to and from Tigre (a suburb near the river delta)--- $2.20
Lunch (split by two with my new friend Sara)
Pear, peach, tomato and almonds--- $6.30/2 = $3.15
pan y queso con albahaca--- $20/2 =$10
aceitunas (olives) $4/2 = $2
Plastic knife and fork from McDonald´s-- Free
Public taxi boat into the delta $15 round trip
Picnic lunch-- Free
Bribe to taxi driver to let us off at two stops $2
Glass of red wine on a patio under the trees $3
Total= $41 pesos = less than $13
Bargain!
Friday, March 21, 2008
slowing down
Mary left yesterday. Our last night was spent learning to tango, eating a bunch of fried argentine food and running through a thunderstorm to not miss our tango show. Our last day was spent visiting the cemetary in Recolleta which hold Evitas tomb, eating lunch and seeing the mothers at the plaza de mayo. Then with a glass of Del fin del mundo champagne, mary was off, back home to the states and I was alone here. It´s easter weekend, all of the confitterias have gigantic chocolate Easter eggs. The most expensive I´ve seen is $200 pesos. They had yesterday, today, and monday as a holiday (which has postponed my trip to Colonia until tuesday because it was full of portenos on holiday). But today is supposedly the Big holiday when most of the things will be closed so I´m ceasing the opportunity to do a whole lot of nothing. I´ll probably upload some more pictures here, perhaps find my way to a picnic in a park. Start that book I brought, it´s a much needed day of R&R. Traveling with Mary and Trish was so much fun. I loved it, but we´ve been on the go... packing it in, and I´m glad to slow down a bit.
Thursday, March 20, 2008
photos-- EL chalten 1
I´m back in the land of high speed internet and card readers which means... Photos!
Here´s a sampling of the beginning part of El Chalten
I´m not as close to the edge as it looks....
It´s so beautiful and no snakes!
On the trail to Fitz Roy (I´m the orange backpack at the lower right).....
The three of us above lago de los tres at the base of Fitz Roy.
Here´s a sampling of the beginning part of El Chalten
I´m not as close to the edge as it looks....
It´s so beautiful and no snakes!
On the trail to Fitz Roy (I´m the orange backpack at the lower right).....
The three of us above lago de los tres at the base of Fitz Roy.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
Things I may not have mentioned about Argentina.
There are a few random good and bad things that I may have forgotten to mention.
#1--- I have sixten mosquito bites on one arm. Not to mention other parts of my body. They´ve been there since BA and led to a hilarious conversation with a pharmacist in Calafate which was "tiene... (lara points to arm)" pharmacist laughs and says "Ahhhh... antiallergico!"
#2---My knee is still sore.
#3--- Things are in such US prices here that every once in a while mary and I have to check ourselves and remind ourselves to divide by three. A cute very nice restaurant, a bottle of really good argentina wine, the best warm trout salad with celery and pumpkin, and some amazing glazed carrots with an entire wheel of melted herbed provelone on top cost $80 peso! yikes! ´til we realized that is approximately $25 TOTAL.
#4--- Mary, trish and I have been conducting an alfajore taste test. A cookie of two cakey type cookies with dulce de leche between them and a chocolate coating. they typically cost about 1 peso (30 cents)
#5--- there are dogs everywhere! (But I have managed to find at least one cat in every town including a very scared one up in the tree yesterday). The dogs are typically very friendly and either don´t give you a second thought or else run to you for attention. They really, would practically speak english to you although the react better to "perro" or "perrito" than to "dog" or "puppy")
#6--- I´ve yet to see tango or football so there is something left still to do in BA....
#1--- I have sixten mosquito bites on one arm. Not to mention other parts of my body. They´ve been there since BA and led to a hilarious conversation with a pharmacist in Calafate which was "tiene... (lara points to arm)" pharmacist laughs and says "Ahhhh... antiallergico!"
#2---My knee is still sore.
#3--- Things are in such US prices here that every once in a while mary and I have to check ourselves and remind ourselves to divide by three. A cute very nice restaurant, a bottle of really good argentina wine, the best warm trout salad with celery and pumpkin, and some amazing glazed carrots with an entire wheel of melted herbed provelone on top cost $80 peso! yikes! ´til we realized that is approximately $25 TOTAL.
#4--- Mary, trish and I have been conducting an alfajore taste test. A cookie of two cakey type cookies with dulce de leche between them and a chocolate coating. they typically cost about 1 peso (30 cents)
#5--- there are dogs everywhere! (But I have managed to find at least one cat in every town including a very scared one up in the tree yesterday). The dogs are typically very friendly and either don´t give you a second thought or else run to you for attention. They really, would practically speak english to you although the react better to "perro" or "perrito" than to "dog" or "puppy")
#6--- I´ve yet to see tango or football so there is something left still to do in BA....
fate.
Before I start this post let me say "knock on wood".
But I had an absoultely fantastic day at the end of the world today. Tierra del Fuego is amazing, as beautiful as anything I have seen in alaska and enough similar to seattle to make it seem like home. What I´ve been thinking about a lot today is traveler´s fate. Or I guess I don´t really know if "fate" is the right word.... luck? that doesn´t seem right either. It´s more just how things have a way of working themselves out, people appear when you need them most.
For example, we had a jam packed day today, the national park in the morning, and the penguins in the afternoon, it was planned to the minute. But when I asked the driver of the bus this morning what time it returned to the hostel the first bus was at three.... too late for us to make it back for our penguin tour. I was flustered and in my (very bad) spanish was trying to explain to the busdriver how we had to be back in the centro by 2:30. When from behind me, the spaniard who I had made a tortilla with the night before jumped in. He explained to the driver our situation and arranged for the van to make a special trip to pick us up at 1:30 and take us directly to the port for our boat. It was a godsend. And we were able to relax and enjoy an amazing hike in the park. And no sooner had we emerged from the trail, than up pulled our van, on the road, waiting for us especially and driving us back directly to the port so that we didn´t miss our boat. The kindness of an impromtu translator and the overtly ccomodating friendliness of the argentine people helped make this amazing day s really astounding. I don´t know if I have mentioned this but I have yet to meet an unfriendly or rude argentine. They are really really lovely people.
So we continued to the penguin tour, you recall our tour yesterday had been canceled because of bad weather? Well, because of that weather we had done some investigation of our own into the tours and thus ended up in a van of 10 people with a naturalist walking amoung 100s of magellenic penguins, and a few subartic thrown in. I couldn´t help thinking as I was sitting there, and we watched a boat like what we had been booked on the day before pull up and observe from a distance, that I was fortunate. Only 45 people are allowed on the island a day. And mary and I were two of them.
Which brings us to another sort of fate, our friend John was the third, we had met him as a dormmate in el calafate. He is a student, traveling on spring break. We have the same flights, so we had hiked together this morning and he came back with us to try to get on our tour and managed to squeeze on to the one before us. We run into each other all over town and then again on an island of penguins. We´ve also run into a myriad of other travelers. It´s really quite amazing.
Anyone who has traveled knows this fate, luck, godsend, well. But it´s still amazing when you get to experience it.
But I had an absoultely fantastic day at the end of the world today. Tierra del Fuego is amazing, as beautiful as anything I have seen in alaska and enough similar to seattle to make it seem like home. What I´ve been thinking about a lot today is traveler´s fate. Or I guess I don´t really know if "fate" is the right word.... luck? that doesn´t seem right either. It´s more just how things have a way of working themselves out, people appear when you need them most.
For example, we had a jam packed day today, the national park in the morning, and the penguins in the afternoon, it was planned to the minute. But when I asked the driver of the bus this morning what time it returned to the hostel the first bus was at three.... too late for us to make it back for our penguin tour. I was flustered and in my (very bad) spanish was trying to explain to the busdriver how we had to be back in the centro by 2:30. When from behind me, the spaniard who I had made a tortilla with the night before jumped in. He explained to the driver our situation and arranged for the van to make a special trip to pick us up at 1:30 and take us directly to the port for our boat. It was a godsend. And we were able to relax and enjoy an amazing hike in the park. And no sooner had we emerged from the trail, than up pulled our van, on the road, waiting for us especially and driving us back directly to the port so that we didn´t miss our boat. The kindness of an impromtu translator and the overtly ccomodating friendliness of the argentine people helped make this amazing day s really astounding. I don´t know if I have mentioned this but I have yet to meet an unfriendly or rude argentine. They are really really lovely people.
So we continued to the penguin tour, you recall our tour yesterday had been canceled because of bad weather? Well, because of that weather we had done some investigation of our own into the tours and thus ended up in a van of 10 people with a naturalist walking amoung 100s of magellenic penguins, and a few subartic thrown in. I couldn´t help thinking as I was sitting there, and we watched a boat like what we had been booked on the day before pull up and observe from a distance, that I was fortunate. Only 45 people are allowed on the island a day. And mary and I were two of them.
Which brings us to another sort of fate, our friend John was the third, we had met him as a dormmate in el calafate. He is a student, traveling on spring break. We have the same flights, so we had hiked together this morning and he came back with us to try to get on our tour and managed to squeeze on to the one before us. We run into each other all over town and then again on an island of penguins. We´ve also run into a myriad of other travelers. It´s really quite amazing.
Anyone who has traveled knows this fate, luck, godsend, well. But it´s still amazing when you get to experience it.
El fin del mundo
Its very cold and windy at the end of the world.... Tierra del Fuego, Ushuaia.
It was very windy as the plane landed, so much so that I got a bit motion sick and then entire plane started clapping when the wheels finally touched down. Our boat tour yesterday was canceled because of the weather so we stopped into an Irish Pub for a beer instead. It was St patty´s after all.
That means today is our day, and we are trying to pack in a short hike in the national park in the morning and a trip to walk with the penguins in the afternoon. It´s going to be one of those traveling days where about halfway through you feel like you have experienced more new things than you do in a month at home. It will be good but I must admit I am starting to really look forward to some down time in BA. I don´t know if I´ve mentioned on here but I´ve decided to spend my last 9 days in BA with just a short couple day trip to a beach town in Uruguay. There is lots more of AR I´d love to see but I want to travel a bit slower for a while.
PS--- Our hostel here in Ushuaia, La Posta is FANTASTIC. I slept like I was in my own bed, down comforter and all and have met some great people, including a man from Valencia who taught me how to properly make a torilla espanola.
It was very windy as the plane landed, so much so that I got a bit motion sick and then entire plane started clapping when the wheels finally touched down. Our boat tour yesterday was canceled because of the weather so we stopped into an Irish Pub for a beer instead. It was St patty´s after all.
That means today is our day, and we are trying to pack in a short hike in the national park in the morning and a trip to walk with the penguins in the afternoon. It´s going to be one of those traveling days where about halfway through you feel like you have experienced more new things than you do in a month at home. It will be good but I must admit I am starting to really look forward to some down time in BA. I don´t know if I´ve mentioned on here but I´ve decided to spend my last 9 days in BA with just a short couple day trip to a beach town in Uruguay. There is lots more of AR I´d love to see but I want to travel a bit slower for a while.
PS--- Our hostel here in Ushuaia, La Posta is FANTASTIC. I slept like I was in my own bed, down comforter and all and have met some great people, including a man from Valencia who taught me how to properly make a torilla espanola.
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Big Ice Leads to Wounded Knees.
Yesterday was our Big Ice Tour. El Calafate´s main claim to fame is its proximity to the Perito Moreno Glacier. One of the largest glaciers that comes off the Southern patagonia Ice Field and definitely the most easily accessible. It´s also one of the only glaciers in the world that isn´t receding. Of course, it hasn´t advanced any further since 1917 either.
Having been to Alaska several times and New Zealand, I´ve seen my fair share of glaciers but despite a few steps in my running shoes on the Matanuska up in Alaska I hadn´t really walked on one. So we booked ourselves a place in the Big Ice tour which boasted an hour and a half hike to and from the Glacier and 4 hours on the glacier itself.
From the moment the van picked us up blasting a remix mashup of Fat Boy Slim and Lenny Kravitz (see earlier post about Patagonia and the 90s), I had a feeling this would be a unique day. Surprisingly an overwhelming amount of people on our tour were native spanish speakers. Puerto Rico, Barcelona, Argentina-- out of the approximately 40 of us there were only 5 english speakers.
The perito moreno glacier is incredibly impressive--a jaggedy mass of blue set beautifully below the mountains behind. We lucked out with the weather again. Sunny with only a few clouds. It was gorgeous (although my nose and neck could have used less sun).
We took a half hour boat trip past the glacier to a beach near the south face and then hike a not so easy hour and a half along the moraine. There we were fitted with our crampons (the very old HEAVY metal kind) and harnesses. Then we were onto the ice. It was beautiful! The sun, the mountains, the ice, the streams and pools of blue--the deepest truest blue you´ve ever seen. We treked for about two hours to a nice snowfield near the center of the glacier where we had lunch, our guides, Julio, Juan, Leo, y Juan surprised us with an alfajore for dessert (our favorite argentine cookie with dulce de leche and a chocolate coating). Then we started back. This is where it got interesting because the sun had heated up the glacier enough that the streams were becoming less and less passible. This was not a trek for the clumsy, and those who know me well know that´s exactly what I am. One particularly daunting crossing I jumped and seemed to make it over with ease. I thought, mid air I was going to make it with ease, and then my left crampton caught my right pant leg and down I went. Glacier Ice is not soft. Especially not on a sunny day. It felt like falling on glass. My right knee started bleeding and the entire tour had to stop while I got iodined and bandaged. It was a bit embarassing, especially as Julio was joking that they would have to send for the helicopters. But I´m fine, its just bruises and a skinned knee. The beauty of the interior of a glacier is something I will not soon forget and so that makes it all worthwhile, well that and the scotch over glacier ice on the return boat trip.
By the way, today we had to say goodbye to trish, our threesome is now a duo. She´s been promising a blog post about her steak experience in BA so stay tuned she´s promised to post next week.
Having been to Alaska several times and New Zealand, I´ve seen my fair share of glaciers but despite a few steps in my running shoes on the Matanuska up in Alaska I hadn´t really walked on one. So we booked ourselves a place in the Big Ice tour which boasted an hour and a half hike to and from the Glacier and 4 hours on the glacier itself.
From the moment the van picked us up blasting a remix mashup of Fat Boy Slim and Lenny Kravitz (see earlier post about Patagonia and the 90s), I had a feeling this would be a unique day. Surprisingly an overwhelming amount of people on our tour were native spanish speakers. Puerto Rico, Barcelona, Argentina-- out of the approximately 40 of us there were only 5 english speakers.
The perito moreno glacier is incredibly impressive--a jaggedy mass of blue set beautifully below the mountains behind. We lucked out with the weather again. Sunny with only a few clouds. It was gorgeous (although my nose and neck could have used less sun).
We took a half hour boat trip past the glacier to a beach near the south face and then hike a not so easy hour and a half along the moraine. There we were fitted with our crampons (the very old HEAVY metal kind) and harnesses. Then we were onto the ice. It was beautiful! The sun, the mountains, the ice, the streams and pools of blue--the deepest truest blue you´ve ever seen. We treked for about two hours to a nice snowfield near the center of the glacier where we had lunch, our guides, Julio, Juan, Leo, y Juan surprised us with an alfajore for dessert (our favorite argentine cookie with dulce de leche and a chocolate coating). Then we started back. This is where it got interesting because the sun had heated up the glacier enough that the streams were becoming less and less passible. This was not a trek for the clumsy, and those who know me well know that´s exactly what I am. One particularly daunting crossing I jumped and seemed to make it over with ease. I thought, mid air I was going to make it with ease, and then my left crampton caught my right pant leg and down I went. Glacier Ice is not soft. Especially not on a sunny day. It felt like falling on glass. My right knee started bleeding and the entire tour had to stop while I got iodined and bandaged. It was a bit embarassing, especially as Julio was joking that they would have to send for the helicopters. But I´m fine, its just bruises and a skinned knee. The beauty of the interior of a glacier is something I will not soon forget and so that makes it all worthwhile, well that and the scotch over glacier ice on the return boat trip.
By the way, today we had to say goodbye to trish, our threesome is now a duo. She´s been promising a blog post about her steak experience in BA so stay tuned she´s promised to post next week.
Friday, March 14, 2008
over 60 kms, three days, one pair of socks....
.... yes, I know it´s disgusting but such is the life of a backpacker.
I´m back in El Calafate, land of only slightly faster and cheaper internet. But El Chalten was good for the soul. I really did hike over 60 kms (40 miles) in three days, I can´t quite believe it except for the blisters on the bottoms of my feet and the smell of said pair of socks.
The first day weather was so so. We started out in clouds but it quickly progressed to drizzle, by the time we reached our destination (laguna torre) it was sleeting. But we could see the glacier and the end of the lake and the landscape was impressive. About halfway back to the town the sun came out and we dried ourselves out on a nice rock while condors soared overhead. We thought it was a great day and felt tough with 20 kms under our belt. The next day looked sort of cloudy as well, but we had decided barring a major downpour we were hiking because the next day could be worse.
The morning dawned without rain and all of us were at first a bit disappointed, we could have handled a day of R&R. By the time we made it to the first mirador we were catching glimpses of fitz roy and it came out to show us all its glory by the time we were crossing the large glacial valley below it. We were high on views. Our final destination, Lago de los tres was quite possibly one of the most beautiful and dramatic places I´ve ever been on earth. The clouds on fitz roy added to the effect. You felt like you were on top of the world. And you felt like you´d earned it. It was 10 kms each way and 750 meters of elevation gain--most of it in the last 3 kms. We were on the trail 9 hours total and all proclaimed it to be one of the best days of our lives.
So this brings us to day #3. We´d heard of a shorter hike near the ranger station which took you up to an overlook that gave you a full view of fitz roy, cerro torre and the other peaks. It is supposedly where all the postcard shots are taken and you have to see it at sunrise. So again, we applied our wake up and check for rain approach. When I looked out the window, i saw stars and knew again, we were going hiking. Armed with our headlamps we started out. Even in the dark we could see fitz roy without a cloud and the sunrise was fabulous, it was clear there were going to be no clouds that day. We headed back to town for breakfast and I decided, I can´t not hike again. Mary and Trish laid down for a nap but I decided to hike just to the mirador to see the view of cerro torre that I couldn´t see before. Armed with a dulce de leche pastry, a jamon y queso sandwich and a can of fanta cola I set out. By the time I reached the mirador it was clear, there was no way I wasn´t going all the way to the lake. And so this is how I ended up hiking the entire Laguna Torre hike again, and it was fabulous alone. At the end all I could hear was the glacier, the stream and there was not a sole in sight. That time alone is something I will never forget and its pretty amazing that it´s possible. It speaks to the wonder that is this area of the world.
But it wasn´t all hiking, we had a lot of fun in the town of El Chalten as well. El chalten in the newest town in Argentina established in 1985 and is just now laying curbs and sewers. There is a cemetary but noone is buried there yet. The town exists solely as a way to access fitz roy and cerro torre and as a way for Argentina to secure its stronghold on that area of the mountains.** Unlike El Calafate, El chalten has managed to maintain its character although I think that is not long for this world judging from the extent of construction there. But something about the town seemed very authentic, very south american, and it wasn´t just the copious amount of stray dogs, which would practically speak english to you to get a bite of your sandwich.
Anyhow, this a long post and an all too insufficient recap of the past three days which have been nothing but good for the soul. Tomorrow we go on the glacier so I best be off to wash those socks.....
**I didn´t really realize it but it appears the border between argentina and chile is still up for debate. Helicopters were taking off all day yesterday and I finally asked the girl who ran our hostel what they were doing, (certainly there weren´t that many people needing search and rescue). She explained that they were setting markers to mark the argentine border so that chile didn´t invade. Apparently, chile´s side down south is all land and ice and they are desperate for an outlet to the atlantic. If they get a peak in the andes they get a water right or something? I´m not entirely sure I understand but they are taking it very seriously and this girl seemed very upset that Chile was trying to steal the land argentina´s by right. It´s kind of humerous and Trish, Mary and I were wondering how they were marking the border, imagining a line of argentine flags on top of the ice fields.
I´m back in El Calafate, land of only slightly faster and cheaper internet. But El Chalten was good for the soul. I really did hike over 60 kms (40 miles) in three days, I can´t quite believe it except for the blisters on the bottoms of my feet and the smell of said pair of socks.
The first day weather was so so. We started out in clouds but it quickly progressed to drizzle, by the time we reached our destination (laguna torre) it was sleeting. But we could see the glacier and the end of the lake and the landscape was impressive. About halfway back to the town the sun came out and we dried ourselves out on a nice rock while condors soared overhead. We thought it was a great day and felt tough with 20 kms under our belt. The next day looked sort of cloudy as well, but we had decided barring a major downpour we were hiking because the next day could be worse.
The morning dawned without rain and all of us were at first a bit disappointed, we could have handled a day of R&R. By the time we made it to the first mirador we were catching glimpses of fitz roy and it came out to show us all its glory by the time we were crossing the large glacial valley below it. We were high on views. Our final destination, Lago de los tres was quite possibly one of the most beautiful and dramatic places I´ve ever been on earth. The clouds on fitz roy added to the effect. You felt like you were on top of the world. And you felt like you´d earned it. It was 10 kms each way and 750 meters of elevation gain--most of it in the last 3 kms. We were on the trail 9 hours total and all proclaimed it to be one of the best days of our lives.
So this brings us to day #3. We´d heard of a shorter hike near the ranger station which took you up to an overlook that gave you a full view of fitz roy, cerro torre and the other peaks. It is supposedly where all the postcard shots are taken and you have to see it at sunrise. So again, we applied our wake up and check for rain approach. When I looked out the window, i saw stars and knew again, we were going hiking. Armed with our headlamps we started out. Even in the dark we could see fitz roy without a cloud and the sunrise was fabulous, it was clear there were going to be no clouds that day. We headed back to town for breakfast and I decided, I can´t not hike again. Mary and Trish laid down for a nap but I decided to hike just to the mirador to see the view of cerro torre that I couldn´t see before. Armed with a dulce de leche pastry, a jamon y queso sandwich and a can of fanta cola I set out. By the time I reached the mirador it was clear, there was no way I wasn´t going all the way to the lake. And so this is how I ended up hiking the entire Laguna Torre hike again, and it was fabulous alone. At the end all I could hear was the glacier, the stream and there was not a sole in sight. That time alone is something I will never forget and its pretty amazing that it´s possible. It speaks to the wonder that is this area of the world.
But it wasn´t all hiking, we had a lot of fun in the town of El Chalten as well. El chalten in the newest town in Argentina established in 1985 and is just now laying curbs and sewers. There is a cemetary but noone is buried there yet. The town exists solely as a way to access fitz roy and cerro torre and as a way for Argentina to secure its stronghold on that area of the mountains.** Unlike El Calafate, El chalten has managed to maintain its character although I think that is not long for this world judging from the extent of construction there. But something about the town seemed very authentic, very south american, and it wasn´t just the copious amount of stray dogs, which would practically speak english to you to get a bite of your sandwich.
Anyhow, this a long post and an all too insufficient recap of the past three days which have been nothing but good for the soul. Tomorrow we go on the glacier so I best be off to wash those socks.....
**I didn´t really realize it but it appears the border between argentina and chile is still up for debate. Helicopters were taking off all day yesterday and I finally asked the girl who ran our hostel what they were doing, (certainly there weren´t that many people needing search and rescue). She explained that they were setting markers to mark the argentine border so that chile didn´t invade. Apparently, chile´s side down south is all land and ice and they are desperate for an outlet to the atlantic. If they get a peak in the andes they get a water right or something? I´m not entirely sure I understand but they are taking it very seriously and this girl seemed very upset that Chile was trying to steal the land argentina´s by right. It´s kind of humerous and Trish, Mary and I were wondering how they were marking the border, imagining a line of argentine flags on top of the ice fields.
"Give me one reason to stay here"
It started the moment we arrived in El calafate, our hostel was blasting counting crows. The next morning, over my cafe americano, I rediscovered that I love tracey chapman, and I´m not ashamed to admit it..... that´s when I realized that at least musically, patagonia is stuck in the 90s.
Since that discovery i´ve heard an endless string of 90´s hits... dave matthews, red hot chili peppers, portishead, massive attack, more tracey chapman.... if I do anything irresponsible in this time I´m going to blame it on feeling like I´m 19 again.
And judging by the 256K modem, the music isn´t the only thing 90s about patagonia. But I´ll forgive it. Because it´s a beautiful land. And I did hear some bjork in one of the cooler stores in town.
Since that discovery i´ve heard an endless string of 90´s hits... dave matthews, red hot chili peppers, portishead, massive attack, more tracey chapman.... if I do anything irresponsible in this time I´m going to blame it on feeling like I´m 19 again.
And judging by the 256K modem, the music isn´t the only thing 90s about patagonia. But I´ll forgive it. Because it´s a beautiful land. And I did hear some bjork in one of the cooler stores in town.
Monday, March 10, 2008
Dinero!
Just a quick post to update that we managed to get cash and are in good shape. I´m minimizing internet here in el chalten $3.00AR ($1.00 us for 15 mins).
El chalten is beautiful and remarkably good weather today. Little wind, which is a common problem. It´s gorgeous and we were able to see Fitz Roy. Remarkably, it kind of reminds me of mazama.
More from cheaper internet....
El chalten is beautiful and remarkably good weather today. Little wind, which is a common problem. It´s gorgeous and we were able to see Fitz Roy. Remarkably, it kind of reminds me of mazama.
More from cheaper internet....
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Dinero
(I´m not sure I spelled that right.)
So we have run into our first major travel hitch and it concerns cash flow.
So remember that post I wrote a while ago about having trouble getting cash? well, we thought we had fixed the problem, and we got lazy. I got out $600 pesos yesterday thinking... El Calafate is such a tourist town we CAN´T have a problem getting cash. Ha! I forgot to consider the fact that the machines run out of money and not a single store in town (or our hostel takes credit).
So I freaked out. It doesn´t help that I don´t have contigency cash, that I am functioning on 2 1/2 hours of sleep and a bad ham sandwich because of our 5:45 am flight this morning, and that this resort town seems to be charging prices three times those in BA. Trish and Mary deserve metals of bravery because they had to deal with the worst of my freak out which may have included me saying "just leave me alone I want to wallow in my own self pity for a while".
But they did it, managed to talk me off my ledge and we have worked out a plan. We have our basic needs for the next 10 days covered. Hostel, bus to/from El chalten, and trip to the glacier. We think we have about $250 for food and a jar of peanut butter and about 30 luna bars between the three of us, and we are hoping that the grocery store in town MIGHT take a credit card. We will survive. It may just be a more budget week than I thought it would be. And I don´t mind budget traveling when it is necessary but it´s a bit disappointing to not have money because of the fact that the town´s ATMs can´t get it to me and I dropped the ball on contingency cash.
Anyhow, we delayed our bus to El chalten and there is hope that we will be able to get groceries with credit and cash in the morning. If not, I´ve reconciled myself to the fact that its a week of top ramen (or argentina´s equivalent). The scenery is enough to make it worth it. It´s absolutely beautiful here in a desolate sort of way. I´m not sure if there will be internet in El chalten so you might not hear from me again until next weekend. I´ll let you know how I survive.
These are the stories you look back on and laugh about right? the ones that teach you can survive anything? Let´s hope.
So we have run into our first major travel hitch and it concerns cash flow.
So remember that post I wrote a while ago about having trouble getting cash? well, we thought we had fixed the problem, and we got lazy. I got out $600 pesos yesterday thinking... El Calafate is such a tourist town we CAN´T have a problem getting cash. Ha! I forgot to consider the fact that the machines run out of money and not a single store in town (or our hostel takes credit).
So I freaked out. It doesn´t help that I don´t have contigency cash, that I am functioning on 2 1/2 hours of sleep and a bad ham sandwich because of our 5:45 am flight this morning, and that this resort town seems to be charging prices three times those in BA. Trish and Mary deserve metals of bravery because they had to deal with the worst of my freak out which may have included me saying "just leave me alone I want to wallow in my own self pity for a while".
But they did it, managed to talk me off my ledge and we have worked out a plan. We have our basic needs for the next 10 days covered. Hostel, bus to/from El chalten, and trip to the glacier. We think we have about $250 for food and a jar of peanut butter and about 30 luna bars between the three of us, and we are hoping that the grocery store in town MIGHT take a credit card. We will survive. It may just be a more budget week than I thought it would be. And I don´t mind budget traveling when it is necessary but it´s a bit disappointing to not have money because of the fact that the town´s ATMs can´t get it to me and I dropped the ball on contingency cash.
Anyhow, we delayed our bus to El chalten and there is hope that we will be able to get groceries with credit and cash in the morning. If not, I´ve reconciled myself to the fact that its a week of top ramen (or argentina´s equivalent). The scenery is enough to make it worth it. It´s absolutely beautiful here in a desolate sort of way. I´m not sure if there will be internet in El chalten so you might not hear from me again until next weekend. I´ll let you know how I survive.
These are the stories you look back on and laugh about right? the ones that teach you can survive anything? Let´s hope.
Saturday, March 8, 2008
SELTZER--- It´s all in the intangibles....
I still am having trouble believing I am halfway across the world.... I´ve been having trouble processing my experiences. When I traveled alone there was lots of downtime to write, and think and soak in all that was around me. I´m learning there is a lot of beauty in having companions, in fact I love it. But I miss the downtime. Eating meals, sipping a coffee or un cerveza were prime journaling times, there was plenty of time to process. So now it seems whenever I steal a moment to myself I have all these thoughts and experiences I am trying to translate and it´s hard to do all at once.
The past two and a half days in BA have been enough for me to fall madly in love with the city. Hell, the first day was enough for me to fall madly in love with the city. So I find myself asking what is it that strikes me most about it. Certainly it helps that I felt immediately safe here. That the people have been nothing but friendly. And that the weather has been warm and relatively rain free. But really I keep coming back to something my coworker said shortly before leaving. He said, "lara you are going to love BA" and I asked what about it I was going to love and he said "It´s really in the intangibles".
And it is really in the intangibles. We haven´t done the tango, la boca´s painted houses weren´t really worth the walk to see them, and we really haven´t seen a lot of sights. What have we done? A lot of walking, exploring Barrios, neighborhoods.... San Telmo, Centro, Retiro, Palermo and we´ve just hit the tip of the iceberg. But already these are the intangibles that I find most appealing about BA. When you order your coffee (which is quite good) it comes with a small glass of seltzer water. Seltzer bottles are everywhere! So far we haven´t been able order an individual beer, it aways comes in a liter bottle with multiple glasses, you are supposed to share. The entire city smells like barbeque (And, by the way, I had the best steak/meal of my life here for $17). When friends greet each other they always kiss everyone on the cheek, same when leaving. And it doesn´t matter if they know you or not. If you are with their friends, you get a kiss, and an introduction.
It´s been wonderful, and brief, a whirlwind so to speak. Tomorrow we are off to Patagonia on a god early flight (we leave our hostel at 4am). So I will sign off for now and then post a few photos before we try to go see a bit of tango before leaving the city.
The past two and a half days in BA have been enough for me to fall madly in love with the city. Hell, the first day was enough for me to fall madly in love with the city. So I find myself asking what is it that strikes me most about it. Certainly it helps that I felt immediately safe here. That the people have been nothing but friendly. And that the weather has been warm and relatively rain free. But really I keep coming back to something my coworker said shortly before leaving. He said, "lara you are going to love BA" and I asked what about it I was going to love and he said "It´s really in the intangibles".
And it is really in the intangibles. We haven´t done the tango, la boca´s painted houses weren´t really worth the walk to see them, and we really haven´t seen a lot of sights. What have we done? A lot of walking, exploring Barrios, neighborhoods.... San Telmo, Centro, Retiro, Palermo and we´ve just hit the tip of the iceberg. But already these are the intangibles that I find most appealing about BA. When you order your coffee (which is quite good) it comes with a small glass of seltzer water. Seltzer bottles are everywhere! So far we haven´t been able order an individual beer, it aways comes in a liter bottle with multiple glasses, you are supposed to share. The entire city smells like barbeque (And, by the way, I had the best steak/meal of my life here for $17). When friends greet each other they always kiss everyone on the cheek, same when leaving. And it doesn´t matter if they know you or not. If you are with their friends, you get a kiss, and an introduction.
It´s been wonderful, and brief, a whirlwind so to speak. Tomorrow we are off to Patagonia on a god early flight (we leave our hostel at 4am). So I will sign off for now and then post a few photos before we try to go see a bit of tango before leaving the city.
Friday, March 7, 2008
photos!
PHOTOS! Just realized this computer here has a card reader and can resize photos! So here is a sample of what buenos aires looks like. (Those of you following my spain blog remember I have a particular penchant for cat photos).
Thursday, March 6, 2008
Splash!
After I wrote last, the tres amigas pulled ourselves together and hit the streets of Buenos Aires. The weather here is warm (70´s & 80´s?) and it seems like afternoon rain showers are common. Therefore, the cobbled streets have a fair amount of puddles, and missing and wobbly tiles. Every few steps one of us would get soaked. Trish and mary were wearing appropriate footwear for this (ie: sandals) my leather flats were not so appropriate and now have a thorough coating of south american mud on them. It´s something you forget about traveling, how you have to watch the street at the same time as you are wanting to look up and see what is all around you. Don´t get caught up in viewing the architecture or else "splash" there was a sudden realization of what is below your feet.
Splash is also an appropriate term for how it feels to be here. Like "splash " we´ve just been dropped down into another world which feels unfamiliar and familiar at the same time. Every few minutes I feel like I have to remind myself that I´m halfway around the world. Buenos Aires feels immediately comfortable to me. Perhaps it is that the culture is similar enough to spain, or that my language skills have improved, or perhaps it is also having trish and mary as touchstones. Whatever the case, I feel remarkably at ease here, despite the occasional "splashes" that remind me that I´m halfway across the world. In South America, In Buenos Aires, which is, from what I have been able to tell thus far a really really cool city.
Splash is also an appropriate term for how it feels to be here. Like "splash " we´ve just been dropped down into another world which feels unfamiliar and familiar at the same time. Every few minutes I feel like I have to remind myself that I´m halfway around the world. Buenos Aires feels immediately comfortable to me. Perhaps it is that the culture is similar enough to spain, or that my language skills have improved, or perhaps it is also having trish and mary as touchstones. Whatever the case, I feel remarkably at ease here, despite the occasional "splashes" that remind me that I´m halfway across the world. In South America, In Buenos Aires, which is, from what I have been able to tell thus far a really really cool city.
Estamos en Argentina!
Just a quick post to say we have arrived safe and sound at our hostel in Buenos Aires. Trish and Mary had canceled and delayed flights so I actually arrived before them but we are all here now. Safe and sound. So far everyone has been very friendly and it is warm and humid! So awesome! More later after we are actually able to explore a bit.
Monday, March 3, 2008
miercoles
That's the day that this adventure will start. The day I leave for Argentina & patagonia, the end of the world.
I've set up this blog to choronicle my adventures. I spent two months traveling through iberia a few years ago (http://www.larasiberia.blogspot.com/). During that time I realized the importance of a blog. See traveling alone, I quickly learned I had no one to share my stories with, so instead I turned to writing, and it was great. The way I related my experiences to an audience of my friends and family was in an entirely different maner than how I would have related it to myself, in journals or such.
So now almost two years later I'm embarking on my next big adventure... this time with some traveling companions. My good friends Trish and Mary will be joining me for the first two weeks and then I'll have a week on my own to explore.
I can hardly wait.
Vamos a Argentina!
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